Nothing gives the landscape a feeling of age and permanence like stone. At Surfing Hydrangea Nursery we offer a variety of stone for all purposes. Whether you are building a retaining wall, patio or apron, we likely offer a product that will suit you. Take a moment to look at our stone display during a visit to the nursery, or contact us and we would be happy to get you exactly what you need.
Hemerocallis, or Daylilies have been a garden staple for years. Their stunning trumpet-shaped flowers open and senesce within 24 hours, hence their name. The American Hemerocallis Society has over 48000 registered cultivars, and of the nearly 13000 of those are available commercially. That makes for a huge variety in color, height, bloom season, and flower form.
Daylilies will tolerate almost any soil type, and will perform in part shade to full sun. However, they prefer rich well drained soil. Full sun will guarantee the most blooms, and consistent water will help keep their foliage deep green throughout the growing season.
Maintenance is simple, yet can be time consuming, if you must take care of extensive plantings. Remove spent blossoms as they appear. Once all the buds have bloomed, cut the entire scape (flower stalk) down to ground level. As July turns to August, the foliage can begin to tatter and brown or many varieties. Remove brown, dry leaves as they appear, or cut the entire plant down to six inches and fresh foliage will soon replace it. An extra boost of fertilizer at this time will also help.
Daylilies mix very well in the border with nearly all summer flowering plants. For a long show of color, interplant Hemerocallis ‘Hyperion’ with daffodils, then follow up with the tender perennial Verbena bonariensis. Contrast large groups of daylilies with plants that have a different leaf form or flower color. Echinacea looks great next to daylilies, as does Phlox paniculata and Persicaria amplexicaulis ‘Firetail’. It’s really tough to go wrong!
The American Hemerocallis Society has a superb online database. Use it to chose plants that will bloom Early, Mid and Late season, and you can enjoy flowers all summer in a wide variety of colors and forms. http://www.daylilies.org/DaylilyDB/
Beautiful, long lived, and versatile, boxwood is a wonderful addition to any island garden. We stock many varieties in a wide array of sizes for every situation. Pictured below are many of the varieties and cultivars in the yard today!
Ornamental grasses have been a part of gardening on Nantucket for years. They come in many shapes and sizes, the largest of which are Miscanthus. Miscanthus has many common names, but most often it is referred to as Maiden Grass or Eulalia. Although they are native to Asia, many of the cultivars are extremely hardy and long lived plants here on the island.
The upright, or arching blades of these warm-season grasses appear in late spring and quickly stretch skyward. In fact, varieties such as floridulus will reach upwards of 10 feet in one growing season! ‘Gracillimus’ is a common variety used as a vertical element in the back of mixed borders or as screening in the summer. It’s fine foliage will reach 6 feet by August, and its inflorescences (flowers) will tower above that in the Autumn.
As well as giants, there are also dwarf varieties. ‘Adagio’ is a fantastic plant that forms a wide clump 5 feet tall and wide. ‘Little Kitten’ tops out at 15 inches, and is a great choice as the upright element in a container garden.
There are even different colors in the foliage. ‘Strictus’ develops a pronounced yellow spotting on the blades as they mature. ‘Morning Light’ has a distinct silver tint to it, with a fine variegation. One of the Miscanthus with the most pronounced striping is aptly called ‘Variegatus’. It has a broad blade with wide white bands that run up and down the blades.
At Surfing Hydrangea Nursery we stock many varieties of Miscanthus, including many not mentioned in this article. We would be happy to show you our grass section! Pictured below are several common varieties of this versatile grass.
“Screening” is the term used by landscapers for plant material that hides an unwanted view. We get questions weekly at the Nursery about the best type of plants to use for this purpose. It’s one of those problems that doesn’t have a perfect solution on Nantucket. However there are several trees and shrubs that will provide a year-round living wall that won’t be decimated by deer.
Medium to short hedges can be created with boxwood. Buxus in all its forms is an extremely deer resistant, evergreen plant for us on Nantucket. Boxwood lends itself perfectly to shearing into hedges, but also looks great allowed to grow naturally. Many people are surprised to learn that American boxwood, Buxus sempervirens, will grow slowly to upwards of 15 feet, making a very dense screen.
In situations where a tall hedge is needed quickly, trees are a better option. The most deer resistant of these are Thuja plicata cultivars like ‘Green Giant’ aka ‘Spring Grove’, Ilex opaca (American Holly), Cryptomeria japonica (Japanese Cedar) and trees in the genus Picea (Spruce) and Pinus (Pines).
Because evergreens hold their foliage all winter, they are more susceptible to desiccation than deciduous trees. Keep these points in mind to help your plants make it through the winter with the least amount of damage.
Potentilla is another deer-resistant plant to add to your arsenal. These small to medium sized shrubs have been popular for years, and for good reason. Their compact habit and gently arching branches work well in mixed shrub borders, foundation beds and mass plantings. Planted in full sun, they are super-low maintenance, tolerate many types of soil and boast flowers from June to frost.
There are more and more cultivars to chose from, but below are some of the most common.
The common name of this popular plant is Salt Spray Rose. The Latin name refers to its wrinkled leaves. Growing wild in the dunes, in commercial landscapes and in home gardens, it would be difficult to visit Nantucket without seeing at least one! They are so widely visible on the island that some have presumed them a native species. In fact, they naturally grow in the sandy coast land areas of Japan, Northern China and Korea. They were introduced to North America from Asia as early as the 1700’s, but more likely in the 1840’s.
These shrubs can be used for a variety of landscape applications. They make a great short hedge, as can be seen along Baxter Road in ‘Sconset. Their tendancy to form colonies lends them very well to mass plantings. They look great in the distance, at a boundary, or up close in a driveway circle. And, as one might imagine, they can do a great job of stabilizing sandy slopes, while tolerating salt spray and wind extremely well. Like other roses, they prefer full sun, and well drained, sandy soils, with some organic matter.
Although Rosa rugosa thrives on neglect in the dunes along our shores, they require some maintenance to look their best in a more structured setting. Pruning is best done when the plants are fully dormant and the leaves have fallen. If you have many to prune, invest in a heavy set of leather gloves. Their tiny spines are notoriously irritating to landscapers and home gardeners alike. To maintain a dense, mounded shape, cut the entire plant to knee-height. This is easily accomplished with hedge trimmers or with loppers and hand pruners. Remove any obviously dead canes at ground level. Wayward suckers can be lopped off, right next to the mother plant. Rosa rugosa hedges should be left to reach their natural height, by only removing dead branches and giving them a light shaping. During summer, lightly nip any stems that grow toward the lawn.
There is no need to deadhead Rosa rugosa — the edible hips that form just below the spent flowers bring their season of interest well into fall, and provide food for wildlife.
Rosa rugosa is free of most porblems associated with other roses, but there are some pests that use them as a food source. Deer will eat them, especially during their spring flush of growth. Deer sprays are a help to keep the damage to a minimum during the summer. And a good fence during the shoulder season might be necessary in areas where deer are especially troublesome. Japanese beetles will congregate on Roses off all types and can completely defoliate plants in a matter of days. Hand-pick and destroy the beetles in the morning or spray them directly with a Spinosad product.
Rosa rugosa is certainly one of Nantucket’s most popular plants. Why not use them in your next project, or try a few in your garden? We offer an ever-changing selection of cultivars and hybrids, from the common to the more uncommon. We would be happy to help you select a variety that suits your taste!
Weigela florida ‘Alexandra’ sold as ‘Wine and Roses’ under the Proven Winners line of plants is in full bloom here at the Nursery. If you like drama in the garden, this is the plant for you! The striking combination of rosy pink flowers and deep wine-colored foliage is a great addition to the shrub border or in a large pot. This Weigela blooms heavily in early summer and will rebloom throughout the summer.
Gardening in the shade can be a challenge for gardeners of all experience levels. Luckily, plant breeders have given us a huge array of Hostas to work with!
Hostas grow best in rich loam with plenty or organic matter, but will tolerate average garden soil. To get the best out of your hostas in our lean island soil, be sure to amend the bed at planting with compost or composted cow manure. Once established, be sure to give them sufficient water and a top-dressing of organic mulch each year.
The major insect pests of Hostas are slugs and snails. They emerge at night to feed, and hide during the day. The tell-tale sign of slug and snail damage is their slimy trails left on the underside of the leaves. Effective organic controls are available and effective. Pelleted products such as Sluggo do a good job of keeping these pests at bay, while not causing the environment any harm. If you still find a lot of damage, try Hostas with leathery leaves, like ‘Krossa Regal.’
Although they prefer dappled shade, morning sun is fine for all types of Hostas on Nantucket. There are even Hostas that will perform in full sun! Those with green or chartreuse leaves tend to tolerate sun better than variegated varieties. ‘Guacamole’ and ‘Sum and Substance’ are both good choices for sunny situations, just be sure to keep them very well watered.
The form and type of leaves that Hostas display is varied. There are miniature plants that could fit in the palm of a child’s hand, all the way to giants with leaves a foot and a half wide. Some are upright, while some mound or nearly hug the ground. They can be variegated, green, chartreuse, gold or blue.
Blue Hostas are a shade garden favorite. The range in this group alone is astounding. If your garden has a shady path, the tiny leaves of ‘Blue Mouse Ears’ would look great tucked among the stepping stones. If you really want to make a statement ‘Blue Angel’ boasts leaves that are 16 inches long and 12 inches wide!
Designing with Hostas is easy. Plant the varieties that you enjoy most, then contrast them with other Hostas that have different leaf color or shape to bring interest into the composition. Liven it up with some Heuchera, Hellebores, Actea and ferns and you are on your way to a spectacular garden!
Disclaimer: I would be amiss if I didn’t mention that Hostas are deer food. Although there is a Hosta for almost every situation, they do resemble a tasty bowl of lettuce for a hungry deer. Stick with ferns and sedges, if you often have deer in the yard during the summer. Otherwise, go HOSTA WILD!
Professional gardeners know that creating continuous bloom in the mixed border can be challenging. The secret to having flowers in the garden straight through until frost is incorporating Annuals, Biennials and Tender Perennials.
Annuals are those plants that grow, flower, set seed and die during a single growing season. Some of the best annuals for the back of the border are Cosmos ‘Sensation Mix’, Cleome ‘Queen Series’ and Verbena bonariensis. All of these plants grow quickly to more than 4′ and flower profusely into fall. The daisy-like flowers of Cosmos do require deadheading to look their best. If you want lower maintenance flowers, try Cleome or Verbena b. The wiry stems and purple flowers of Verbena b. blend well with nearly everything! TIP FOR SUCCESS: Because annuals must complete their life cycle in one season, they tend to be heavy feeders. Be sure to incorporate a time-release fertilizer formulated for flowering annuals into the soil when you plant them. And don’t be afraid to follow up with a liquid fertilizer, if necessary.
Biennials are plants that form a basal rosette of leaves during the first growing season. During the second season, they will flower, set seed and generally die. Hollyhocks (Alcea rosea), Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea), and Lupines (Lupinus) fall into this category. There are three ways to treat biennials. As short-lived perennials: Cutting the flower stalk down before seeds mature, will often help the plant survive for several years. As true biennials: Leaving the seeds to mature on the plant and fall to the ground will normally give you enough seedlings in the spring to fill the area. As annuals: The best way to guarantee a great show is to replace them every year with high-quality plants. TIP FOR SUCCESS: Biennials tend to flower in early to mid summer. If you don’t want a blank space in the garden when they finish flowering, be sure to plant mid-height perennials in front that flower later in summer like Phlox (Phlox paniculata) or Turtlehead (Chelone).
Tender Perennials are marginally hardy or short-lived perennial plants. Delphinium, Dahlias, Strawberry Foxglove (Digitalis mertonensis) and some tropicals fit into this category. TIP FOR SUCCESS: Marginally hardy plants like Dahlias and other tuberous plants can be dug up and stored in damp vermiculite over the winter and then replanted in early summer to avoid the possibility of freezing during winter. During mild winters, a heavy mulch might be enough to protect some tender plants. Some varieties are hardier than others, so experiment!
